Paella Queen

If you're asking yourself this question, it's probably because you're familiar with the debate around paella and what should go in it. We've talked about what goes in paella valenciana , and for some chefs and Valencian locals, that's as far as paella should go. Toni Novo, the owner of one of Valencia's oldest paella eateries, is one of these purists. He is extremely particular about his ingredients, including what variety of green bean is the most authentic, and dismisses anything other than the most "traditional" paella valenciana as made for tourists. But he calls out chorizo particularly: as he told Lens Gourmand , “Chorizo, peppers, pork ribs…those are not accurate." On the other hand, if you know the history of paella, you realize that the dish has been evolving since ancient times. Only a few centuries ago, it was being made with water vole meat, and I don't see any traditional Spanish restaurants serving that! The fact is, cuisine,...

You might not realize it, but there is a lot of controversy around paella. While many Americans think of it as Spanish cuisine's most recognizable dish, within Spain itself, it is actually considered a regional specialty. The history of paella in Valencia goes back to the 10th century. After Moors began cultivating rice there, Valencians began making rice-based casseroles (primarily with fish) for holy day feasts and family gatherings. Paella as we would recognize it didn't truly begin to emerge until the 18th century, when Valencians started to cook rice outdoors in big cauldrons for special occasions. At that time, it was often made with water vole and eel for meat, often along with beans. As Spain became more prosperous in the late 1800's, typical paella ingredients changed to include rabbit, chicken, and sometimes duck, along with snails. Poorer Spaniards used snails as the primary (and sometimes only) protein. Photo credit: Marc Palumbo, CC BY 2.0 license , via ...