What Is in Authentic Paella Valenciana?

You might not realize it, but there is a lot of controversy around paella. While many Americans think of it as Spanish cuisine's most recognizable dish, within Spain itself, it is actually considered a regional specialty. The history of paella in Valencia goes back to the 10th century. After Moors began cultivating rice there, Valencians began making rice-based casseroles (primarily with fish) for holy day feasts and family gatherings.

Paella as we would recognize it didn't truly begin to emerge until the 18th century, when Valencians started to cook rice outdoors in big cauldrons for special occasions. At that time, it was often made with water vole and eel for meat, often along with beans. As Spain became more prosperous in the late 1800's, typical paella ingredients changed to include rabbit, chicken, and sometimes duck, along with snails. Poorer Spaniards used snails as the primary (and sometimes only) protein.

Paella Valenciana
Photo credit: Marc Palumbo, CC BY 2.0 license, via flickr
Which brings us to the modern controversy. With the popularity of Spanish-inspired rice dishes growing all over the world, there has been a backlash with purists. Authentic paella valenciana is very narrowly defined, with a set list of acceptable ingredients (besides the rice, water, olive oil and salt): chicken, duck, rabbit, snails, butter beans, green beans, tomatoes, saffron, garlic, paprika and rosemary. If you deviate from this canon and try to call your paella authentic, you're in for an earful from the likes of Guillermo Narvarro, one of the founders of WikiPaella, which aims to keep the traditional recipes alive.

That's not to say that there aren't other valid paella ingredients; you just have to call the dish something else! I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, where we are completely spoiled with the availability of international cuisine. La Marcha, my favorite Berkeley Spanish restaurant, serves traditional paella valenciana alongside five other selections, which is great if you go with a group, so that you can try more than one.

When it comes to paella, whatever your own personal preference, I say go with it. As long as it's flavorful, crusty on the bottom, and the rice is perfectly cooked, that's what matters when it comes time to eat. Just make sure you don't call your dish by that one sacred name, and you'll be fine.

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